Bozeman ended up being a pleasant surprise. We got to stay with two amazing hosts, as well as wander around the cute little downtown area. It’s a bit of a shame that the college in Bozeman doesn’t have any Master’s programs that I’d be interested in. So far Missoula is still our favorite city in Montana, but Bozeman is ranked a close second and we’d certainly love to return for a longer stay at some point.
On Monday (5/25) we got kind of a late start. After saying good bye to our Warm Showers host we stopped by Wal-Mart to get some groceries for the road. Billings is a four-day trip away and we wanted to make sure we were ready. There are plenty of small towns along the way but it’s difficult to know what type of stores they’ll have in them. We’ve found it’s much better and safer to be prepared.
While packing up outside the store we had several people come up and chat with us about our journey. We handed out some of our business cards and were able to secure a place for us to stay in both Alabama and the Florida Keys, whenever we make it that far. People are really amazing and generous most of the time… well, some people. Our journey is far from a statistical study but so far it seems people of lower income are more willing to help out strangers than those of higher income. I’m not really sure why that is.
Anyway, we hit the road around noon with a warm sun and clear skies above. The first 15 miles were pretty rough, we had to climb another mountain pass. It wasn’t as bad as MacDonald but we were pushing by the end and the sun was taking its toll on us. Once we reached the top things got a bit easier. We coasted downhill about five miles through some farmland and met back up with the interstate. There were tons of other cyclists on the road (thanks Memorial Day), including a man we met named Vlad. He is in the middle of cycling from Washington state to Massachusetts. We exchanged a few quick stories with Vlad and wished him a good journey. Needless to say, he was traveling much more quickly than we were.
After another small climb we had a nice 10ish-mile downhill into Livingston, our planned stopping city. During this part of the ride we had our first flat. Anna’s front tube was punctured by a really sharp and pointy piece of gravel. So far the Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires have been a huge success – one flat for eight wheels over two weeks of travel is pretty impressive for us! We were on the road pretty quickly after the flat and had dinner on the side of the road just inside Livingston. Unfortunately, we were unable to secure any housing in the city. There were no Couchsurfers or Warm Showers hosts, and the campgrounds were pretty expensive due to the location near Yellowstone. We reached out to a few churches but only heard one response, from a church that told us they had a policy against letting people stay in their church overnight or camp on their land. Seemed like a pretty un-Christlike policy to us but we politely thanked them for the response and just moved on. It’s a little sad but we are kind of used to churches ignoring us or telling us no when we need help. I am always tempted to throw a few verses their way to remind them of who they claim to be following but I always bite my tongue. If we had passed the church on our route I would have definitely knocked the dust off my shoes on their doorstep, though.
We continued to cycle along the Yellowstone River as the sun started to set. It was beautiful out and we saw tons of deer wandering around, but unfortunately finding a safe place to lay our heads was difficult. There was so much open land (not good for camping secretively) and so many miles of barbed wire with NO TRESPASSING signs (not good for camping in general). We asked the only person we saw if he knew of any places we could camp…we were hoping he would offer up a small space on his dozens of acres of land but instead he just suggested that we head back into town and pay for one of the expensive campgrounds. We ignored his advice and pressed on, eventually finding a little cove on the side of the road to set up our tent for the night. It is slightly ironic (I think, I still don’t know the proper way to use that word) that a veteran was unable to find a safe place to sleep on Memorial Day.
We had barely been settled in our tent for ten minutes when a car pulled up next to us and the driver told us we could stay by the river with him and his friends, just a couple miles down the road. We definitely would have taken him up on his offer if we hadn’t already gotten settled in, plus we were exhausted from our day of biking and biking j two more miles sounded like too much work. So, we crashed long and hard in our original side-of-the-road spot, knowing that we had only another 25 miles or so to go before we reached Big Timber, our next resting point.
The night went pretty smoothly. The road we camped along was pretty much unused during the night and it wasn’t until around 6:30 AM that we heard cars passing by our tent again. We slowly returned to the land of the living and hit the road around 10 AM. (Getting up and moving can be pretty tough sometimes. We don’t do a lot of miles daily compared to other tourists…in fact, Anna calls us bike turtles instead of bike tourists because of our large shells, slow speed, and the way we carry our homes with us. But, those shorter miles are still draining since we are active and in the sun most of the day.) Anyway, after we finally hit the road, we spent the first 11 miles treading slowly over very rough and rocky terrain. Now it was time for our Surlys to show their strength. The Disc Truckers are beasts that absorb shock well and put up with a lot of punishment. I really can’t imagine doing the last two weeks with our old equipment. It certainly would have been possible but it would’ve been a lot less fun and way more frustrating.
Our day improved after we turned off the bumpy dirt road onto a smooth paved frontage road and coasted the remaining 16 or so miles into Big Timber (Big T!). When we got to town we headed to a really nice city park to do a little maintenance and upgrades to our gear. Then, around 5:30, we headed over to our host’s home. The pastor of the Lutheran Church in town had kindly offered to let us stay with him. Pastor Joel turned out to be an incredible person. He seemed to know exactly what travelers need. He offered us a spare bedroom and bathroom, told us to make ourselves at home, and just to let him know if we needed anything. He then headed into his living room and gave us our space and privacy. This was really wonderful for us because after miles and hours on the road, we are usually pretty frazzled and it is really hard for us to make small talk. We’ve found it is much better to let that wait until the next morning, after we’ve rested and our thinking is a bit clearer. Pastor Joel did just that, he let us rest.
The next morning we woke around 6:30 AM (thanks Higgins, you dickhole) and started getting ready to go. Pastor Joel was awake shortly after and we talked with him a bit about our lives, Big Timber, and the world in general as we packed. It was clear that he had some stories to tell and has lived a full life so far. He has three kids and a handful of grandkids, but there seemed to be a bit of sadness behind his eyes. He mentioned that he was single, though didn’t mention why. Being in a big house alone with only an aging dog has got to weigh on the spirit a bit. I wish I knew more of his history, but he spoke of it vaguely and focused mostly on the future.
We left Pastor Joel’s with a smile and a wave and hit the road around 9:30 AM. Our day as planned was going to be one of our longer ones, at 44 miles, but the terrain looked to be in our favor. We traveled quickly on an interstate frontage road for about 24 miles until we hit Reed Point (we even had a bit of a tailwind for once!) At Reed Point we ate some lunch, played with Higgs, and made the decision to get on the interstate for 8 miles instead of taking the backroads for 10 miles. The backroads were gravel, hilly, and altogether nasty. The interstate, on the other hand, was pretty flat and had a large and smooth shoulder. It was definitely the right decision.
In no time at all, we arrived in Columbus and headed over to Itch-Kep-Pe Park, an amazing free campground maintained by the city. We arrived at 3:30 PM, which is pretty early for us, and began setting up camp. While setting up camp a guy named Kevin (I’m pretty sure his name was Kevin, I suck at names) approached and started chatting with us. He is on a cross-country journey as well, traveling in his van, which is pretty awesome and decked out with solar panels, a big bed, and a desk for studying. We ended up chatting around the fire for about six hours about our travels, how fucked up our government and system is, science, comics, transhumanism, and exploring the stars. He was truly a student of the world and had an inspiring curiosity about all things, it really reignited my drive to finish Khan Academy and keep studying sexuality and psychology. He even told us about the Persiad Meteor Showers coming up in August – we will be on the road between Madison, Wisconsin and Chicago at that time so maybe we will camp out in a low-light area and watch the sky light up. It was a great conversation and I hope we stay in touch throughout our travels. Alas, we needed rest though and hit the sack at about 9 PM.
We woke up super early again thanks to our asshole dog. I’m not really sure what feeding schedule he thinks he’s on now but he wakes us up at 6:30 and won’t leave us alone. We are going to need to fix that somehow. Maybe I’ll just abandon him on the side of the road in rural Montana (kidding). Luckily, we fell back asleep until 10:30 or so. I had a work call at noon so we just stayed in the campground while I knocked that out.
The late start to our day ended up making things a bit miserable (although we had no way of knowing that ahead of time). It started drizzling soon after we got on the road and we were hit by a big thunderstorm around 2 PM or so. The rain was just pouring down and making it pretty much impossible (and dangerous) to keep biking, so we had to hide out under a tree. We were cold, completely soaked, and any equipment exposed to the elements was also completely soaked. (Although luckily our trailers and panniers are pretty water resistant, so everything inside stayed mostly dry.) Our mood was a little on the gloomy side as we weighed our options…we could either set up camp there under the tree and just give up on making it to Billings, or we could keep waiting with the hope things would clear up so we could hit the road again. Looking up weather reports was no help, all they told us was that there was was a 51% of rain the rest of the day. Do you know how worthless that information is? 51% provides no guidance. It is the flip of a coin. I sometimes think meteorologists are just fucking with us all. We all know the old saying, “April showers bring May flowers”, but we often forget about the lesser known saying, “May monsoons kick June in the balls”.
After an hour or so we still hadn’t made the decision to give up and set up our tent, which was lucky because the worst of the rain ended up passing, and we decided to get back on the road despite the continued drizzle. We were now running pretty late but the road continued to be smooth, paved, and relatively free from hills. We stopped infrequently, only to let Higgs use the bathroom and to eat a little bit of food. I did go into a gas station to get a candy bar because I deserve it. At the gas station a big, burly Harley rider walked up to me. He had an eye patch over one eye and his jacket looked like something off of Sons of Anarchy. I know nothing about motorcycle clubs so I just assumed he had an uzi or something on him too. He had seen us biking earlier in the rain and asked about the ride. I explained it to him and he chuckled, called us badasses, and offered me a fist-bump. I returned the fist-bump (obviously).
The rest of the day was basically on and off rain. Luckily it didn’t downpour again though, so we were able to press on through the drizzle and eventually made it to our host’s home at around 8 PM. We were greeted with towels to dry off with, red wine, and rhubarb crumble with ice cream. We were also given a private sunroom to sleep in and access to their hot shower as well as their hot tub. It is going to be a lovely time here in Billings. While we do need to get our bikes tuned up and get some work done, we are certainly looking forward to a few days of relaxation and exploration of this town. We have some ideas for breweries, a Thai restaurant, and a source for fantastic sushi. But to be honest, I just hope they have some decent pizza.